Trend Designers to Watch: Dahm Home – WWD

Founder, artistic and editorial director Catharine Dahm quietly launched her namesake, luxurious idea style label, Dahm Home, in Paris this 12 months. 

Dahm hails from Indiana and moved to Paris after chopping her enamel within the business as the previous cofounder of sustainable, contemporary label Rabot. Dahm Home is her debut unbiased and self-funded model (she’s presently started fundraising for Assortment 02’s fall and spring 2025 strains). 

The Dahm Home debut Assortment 01, “Welcome to Earth,” was designed to “have a good time the artwork of craft and inventive storytelling” with ready-to-wear designed and sourced in Paris. The 26-piece fall assortment brings forth the thought of “magnificence, fragility and swish circularity of life,” by means of handcrafted particulars, thematic symbols, pure hues and supplies. 

“For me, design is so private and I needed every assortment to be centered round a theme,” Dahm mentioned. Every of her inaugural, heirloom-minded collections (set to launch for fall and spring) will embody the thought of storytelling, additional expanded upon with coinciding Dahm Home magazines. The debut Assortment 01 journal, distributed internationally by KD Presse, encompasses a combination of writing, poetry and editorial photograph tales. “I don’t need it to really feel like a list; it’s actually its personal universe. Particularly for a luxurious model, it makes it simpler for individuals to buy and be a part of the world.”

Dahm’s luxurious ready-to-wear balances a timeless ethos with a play on the masculine versus female in construction and fabrication, however the sudden delight of her types shine by means of their sensual-meets-whimsical particulars.

Dahm mentioned she cherished the thought of, “I dreamt I used to be a flower — as if somebody was dreaming and morphing into these flower shapes,” which resulted in blooming, three-dimensional florals, as seen as shapely trousers hems; on the breasts of tailor-made tops and “Hunzicker” gown (in wool or raw-edged, silk organza), and within the type of hand-painted petal sleeves and collars of her brown cotton sateen menswear “Harding” shirt with mother-of-pearl buttons and silk satin duchess piping.

“I do have this Paris-Indiana as a part of the model as a result of I really feel prefer it sounds charming. I’m utilizing that because the tag for every thing and I’m planning to shoot my second assortment there [in Indiana] — I really feel like it’s important to incorporate your roots a bit bit,” mentioned Dahm, including clothes are named after ladies in her life, such because the petal-hemmed “Linda” pants, named after her grandmother who had the rule modified at her daughter’s college to allow ladies to put on pants as an alternative of skirts. “That’s what I imply after I say design to me is so private — I need to pay homage to folks that encourage these clothes.”

A robust throughline of the gathering is her use of hand-embroidered pure glass, beads and stones as built-in jewellery — a nod to the gathering’s esoteric concepts of life and evolution.

“There’s an incredible store within the third [arrondissement], it’s like Harry Potter’s store with floor-to-ceiling bins of all classic glass beads. I’ve a whole lot of glass Murano beads from Italy within the assortment — the removable sleeves have classic Murano glass. They’re actually timeless, elevated and sensual particulars…when you have an excessive amount of that it might probably simply be overwhelming, nevertheless it invitations you to take a look at issues and produce you nearer,” she mentioned. All through the gathering, clients are invited nearer to watch her hand-beaded spirals manufactured from lapis, malachite, pearl, jasper and lemon quartz, to call just a few. The motifs might be seen on the busts of her structured corset tops and attire, which properly supply a stability between the playful and sensual. 

“This gown is so horny on — it has a corset physique and actually takes this theme of evolution with Malachite on the female aspect of the physique for earthy vitality and grounding; Lapis on the masculine aspect for air and sky vitality. No one’s going to take a look at that gown and assume, ‘Oh, masculine vitality,’ nevertheless it’s private. I don’t ever need something to really feel too costume — it must really feel refined, and has a contact of caprice,” she mentioned of the tailor-made black wool “Yireh” corset gown with entrance slits and distinction stitching.

Different particulars all through the gathering stem from the thought of convertibility, as seen by means of hook-and-eye closures on tops; outerwear, denims and trousers with button-up-or-down, -on-or-off accents, and lengthy, wrappable ties on blouses and attire.

Approaching Assortment 01 as an natural launch and “advertising assortment,” Dahm sells direct-to-consumer through her web site underneath the preorder mannequin (with a made-to-order time-frame of 4 weeks) with costs starting from $265 to $4,478. The founder and inventive sees the Dahm Home buyer akin to the Bode crowd — “intelligent, clever ladies who’re working in industries resembling structure, publishing, design — those that have an appreciation for type and need to spend money on clothes that also feels related, feels trendy, however that they will have and ideally preserve for a very long time.”

Since debuting Assortment 01 through e-commerce, she famous clients have responded effectively to her “dialog between construction and fluidity with these little nodes of magnificence on high.” 

“In addition they just like the teetering between the poetry of female and masculine, yin-yang,” she mentioned. As an example, the Dahm Blazer (a one-piece wool and silk black blazer with dickie-like cotton and silk vest and mother-of-pearl closure) atop the Costello skirt; different favorites had been famous because the Claire, Aline and Catharine tops; Leonard pants, and coats.

“First impressions are so essential. I’ve been spending a whole lot of time and assets on ensuring every thing feels private as a result of I need the primary contact level for a purchaser, for press, for purchasers to actually perceive what I’m making an attempt to do and never really feel like ‘after three seasons, she’s received it found out.’ As a result of truthfully, a whole lot of the time you solely get one shot; even too, I do know it typically takes just a few seasons for individuals to realize traction, and I need there to nonetheless be a primary assortment that’s robust like proof of document.”

Dahm plans to evolve this mannequin over the following few years into an atelier mannequin, the place clothes can be personally fitted for purchasers. As well as, she’s going to unveil her spring 2024 assortment — an growth of her “sensible tailoring with sudden poetic touches” — to wholesale for the primary time throughout Paris Fashion Week. 

“Spring 2024 can be Assortment 01, ‘Welcome to Earth,’ Half 2. The thought is that every assortment lives for a full calendar 12 months and is split into fall and spring, with {a magazine} launching yearly to coincide with every assortment to increase the storytelling. It will permit the silhouettes and storytelling to construct/flourish for a full 12 months as an alternative of too rapidly folding into a brand new assortment every 4 to 6 months,” Dahm mentioned.