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There’s a sombre however highly effective temper permeating London Trend Week this season. The whole thing of the week is devoted to the reminiscence of Dame Vivienne Westwood, whose exceptional life and profession was celebrated in a (very stylish) memorial service final Friday. Westwood’s function as an unapologetic style punk was astutely felt at JW Anderson’s Fall Winter ‘23 present, which debuted on the performing arts venue (and former rave hotspot) The Roundhouse in Camden final evening. The gathering was a collaboration between Anderson and the choreographer Michael Clark, himself a counter tradition icon who has been dubbed “the David Bowie of dance”. It was clear this wasn’t your typical style present from the second company arrived on set—the runway was staged between giant sculptures baring Clark’s aesthetic signatures: amongst them, the define of an enormous penis.
Anderson had been raiding Clark’s sizable archives in researching the gathering, a course of which in the end led the Irish designer again to his personal again catalogue. The top result’s a group that marries Clark’s genius with Anderson’s personal: the best hits from the final 15 years of JW Anderson appeared for F/W ‘23, imaginatively reworked and modernised. I needed one thing which was about the way you sort of reconcile the previous,” Anderson defined in an interview. “How do you take care of what you’ve got achieved? As a result of in the end the job of a designer goes by a sequence of rejections of issues. And it was very nice to work out methods by which you can break the whole lot. And perhaps enhance on them.”
References to Clark oscillated between the overt (tanks and outsized knits bearing the phrases ‘MICHAEL CLARK’ in vivid inexperienced) to the referential. A jumpsuit was impressed by a efficiency of Clark’s by which he carried out carrying a plastic Tesco bag. Boxy vinyl tees referenced different pop art-inspired photographs that accompanied a few of Clark’s most memorable exhibits. “At its core, it is a assortment about fandom,” learn Anderson’s present notes. “Fandom is a humorous factor: fully private, regularly irrational, typically embarrassing.”
Little doubt Anderson’s personal followers really feel the identical approach about him. Recognizing a number of the designer’s best hits was a reminder of simply how necessary—and enduring—the JW Anderson model is. Anderson’s work with Loewe is justifiably revered, however his namesake label ought to encourage simply as a lot awe. Very similar to Clark and Westwood, Anderson is defining what it may imply to be British: daring, artistic, and uncompromising.
LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 19: A mannequin walks the runway on the JW Anderson present throughout London Trend Week February 2023 on February 19, 2023 in London, England. (Picture by Chris Ratcliffe/BFC/Getty Photos)
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