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Acid wash denim. Distressed denims. Tremendous-knit leggings laden with ladders. Sky-high slits. Lace-up pants and exaggerated sleeves lengthy sufficient to graze the knees. Materials slashed, frayed, stretched and splotchy, artfully ripped or tear-stricken with paint. These are the components that made up Zits’s grungy-yet-vegetal fall 2023 assortment, set in opposition to an otherworldly treescape impressed by pure cycles of development and decay.
“Scandinavia is the type of place the place town ends abruptly after which the pine forest begins,” defined artistic director Jonny Johansson of the gathering’s origin story. “I’ve all the time loved the distinction between city life and nature, the concept that an infinite forest is simply across the nook.”
Even for metropolis dwellers, that sentiment is compelling. Who isn’t seeking to steal away from their screens and immerse themselves within the outside? On this assortment, Johansson tasked himself with curating a wardrobe for these daring sufficient to take action in leather-based moto jackets reworked into all-in-ones and attire held along with lace flowers, cloth manipulated into leaves and leaf-like prints. Decomposition alongside florescence. Clothes energised by creative interpretations of life in rot and full bloom. Impractical, maybe, however actually imaginative and—in step with Zits’s superpowers of subversive design—propelled onlookers to rethink the sorts of clothes custom has linked to nature.
Whereas skirt fits spliced with fishnets and attire with gaping holes felt a little bit well-worn for the runway, Johansson’s outsized outerwear in masculine silhouettes (see wool blazers with shoulder pads; floor-skimming herringbone coats; trenches with built-in scarves in the identical cloth) hardly felt misplaced, inviting wearers to rug up for cooler climates. General, the gathering felt nostalgic—clinging to Zits’s roots in denim and leather-based—but additionally developed, its removing from actuality to a parallel universe sarcastically giving it fashion-forward enchantment.
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