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One might breathe a sigh of aid watching the Antonio Marras spring present. The designer offered a majority stake to Calzedonia Group final yr, however this hasn’t curbed his fascination with theatrical present productions — nor his creativeness. Quite the opposite, it was apparent it has given him a way of freedom to give attention to his creativity as Marras introduced a riveting and thrilling assortment for spring, which took viewers onto an imaginary stage set.
The Italian designer translated his ardour for the films into a movie inside his present. The runway set was organized like a movie studio, the place actors, the director, employees, costume designers and assistants took turns fussing across the final Diva, with a capital D, mentioned Marras, and performed by Marisa Berenson. As fashions walked across the set, she impersonated the quintessential, capricious actress — tantrums included as she loudly demanded to know the place her husband had gotten to.
Marras’ temper board confirmed photographs of a famously litigious real-life couple, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, whose movies collectively included the 1967 “Growth” that was shot in Alghero, Italy, the place the designer was born and nonetheless lives, and was directed by Joseph Losey.
Marras was six years previous on the time and Hollywood coming so near handmade an impression that by no means left him. Including extra feeling to the present, photographs of the Sardinian sea and the island’s rugged mountains ran on large screens as a counterpoint to the gathering and the mock studio.
Nonetheless, the garments weren’t overshadowed by the manufacturing. Ethereal caftans have been juxtaposed with a double-breasted pinstriped pantsuit cinched on the waist, with a protracted black flower embroidered on the facet including a female contact to the tailor-made design.
Sheath clothes flowed, both embroidered, embellished with Chantilly lace or beaded, contrasting with sartorial Prince of Wales fits.
Full miniskirts in gold damask have been offset by Marras’ signature army jackets with floral purposes or sequined patterns.
There was a lot for males, too, resembling a smooth leather-based trench, silk Bermuda pants or a go well with with a light floral motif. Boxy jackets with sturdy shoulders labored on each women and men.
A gem of a protracted night robe was embroidered with a motif reproducing cresting waves and birds flying above the water.
The brand new proprietor’s monetary muscle helps Marras to be much more assured — as he indulged in 90 seems to be — and confirmed extra and stronger equipment, with out compromising his aesthetic.
Berenson concluded her speech by saying that “simplicity is all the time rewarding.” In Marras’ case, the other rings true.
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