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It was within the cobblestone courtyard of Designmuseum Denmark the place the Spring/Summer time 2024 season of Copenhagen Style Week started.
Underneath the mercy of Storm ‘Hans’, the sometimes temperate week fell sufferer to gray skies, sudden showers and a cool breeze blowing south from the Arctic.
By the top of the primary day, with this season marking an extension of CPHFW from a three-day affair to 4, the mode of the week was clear. This might be the season fashions put on bikinis within the rain.
With Scandinavian and Nordic designers arguably probably the most playful amongst the style set, Copenhagen proved to be a vivacious metropolis stuffed with an infectious ‘something goes’ vitality.
This vibe wasn’t shifted or deterred by the local weather, however somewhat enhanced, with the setting of the week offering a moody backdrop for the colourful shows on the runway.
In every assortment, a way of patriotism for Copenhagen was palpable, particularly the unpredictability of the harbour metropolis and its innately fashionable inhabitants. This was discerned in how every assortment took cues from the road type set, embraced purposeful style the sporadic climate requires or complimented the array of architectural marvels the place their reveals had been introduced.
Primarily, the shocking summer time storm made a case for why CPHFW is main the vanguard because the world’s most sustainable style week. To indicate on the schedule, designers should adhere to 18 strict sustainability requirements.
Serving because the blueprint for the required paradigm shift and tangible change wanted from the business, the array of pure fibres, recycled fabrications and deadstock supplies highlighted the perpetual vulnerability of the world below the impacts of local weather change.
In Copenhagen, excessive style is just not solely sustainable, nevertheless it’s additionally the dernier cri.
This mode of unparalleled deal with sustainability isn’t simply unique to style, with town’s motels, eating places, galleries, homeware boutiques and jewellers, like Pandora, all sharing this collective dedication.
This season noticed a extra refined tackle Scandi type. One which was underpinned by 90s minimalism and a softer method to puckish silhouettes.
Between the four-day week and numerous assortment displays, listed here are the largest runway developments from Copenhagen Fashion Week SS24 to acquaint your self with.
Dwell Performances
Although this isn’t a sartorial development, it’s the most ubiquitous. Over the 4 days, CPHFW embraced the sonic abilities of their metropolis by subverting the basic runway soundtrack for a collection of stay performances.
Cecilie Bahnsen tapped Parisian ‘It’ girl Suki for a ‘stay classes’ occasion impressed by her FW23 present from Paris Style Week, Stamm looked to Syrian-Scandinavian rapper Silvana Imam and GANNI even seemed to AI to create a ‘stay’ playlist of head-swaying hits.
Styling Heros
As noticed from the runways of CPHFW, the key to Scandi type is within the elevated minutia of the wearer’s ensembles, particularly achieved via added accents and flairs designers have dubbed ‘styling heroes’.
Saks Potts embellished their summer time assortment with flirty scarfs and ruffled frills, whereas OpéraSPORT added rosette belts and lace wraps to their extra basic shapes.
Even ROTATE styled their assortment with tassel earrings and nipple pasties impressed by the hanging fringes of old-school college resort keys.
Gentle Layering
Although a sure viral TikTok sound would inform you the important thing to attaining Scandi type is thru layering ruffled maxi attire with contrasting knits (together with a balaclava) and chunky sneakers, the runways at CPHFW have proved the other.
The SS24 season hinted at a return to Scandi minimalism, which is becoming for the present financial local weather. Skall Studios, Stay and Mark Kenly Domino Tan all centered on staple items in impartial tones, proving to be sartorial fundamentals.
However somewhat than the straightforward ‘stealth wealth’ style, these silhouettes had been subverted with hidden particulars and an interior Scandi aptitude via gentle layering.
Denim Wishes
Denim was a key fabrication employed at CPHFW, although not within the conventional means.
Saks Potts took cues from Bottega Veneta in presenting their model of a Canadian tuxedo crafted from technical ‘blue denim’ leather-based, whereas GANNI supplied a Barbiecore tackle metallic denim in a burnished pink end.
ROTATE and Gestuz seemed to indie sleaze-esque distressed denim, with exaggerated rips and printed jacquard-like materials respectfully.
Merciless Summer time
In contrast to the balmy temperature of SS23, CPHFW’s tackle summer time necessities was marred by raucous climate. That didn’t inhibit designers from placing a Scandi spin on summer time silhouettes.
Saks Potts paired bikini tops with sequin maxi skirts and stringy swimwear paired with leather-based units crafted to look as denim. OpéraSPORT additionally adopted go well with with key swimwear kinds paired with matching pinstripe button-downs and purses.
Helmsted in all probability had probably the most apt method to this ‘merciless’ summer time season, with a rain cloud bralette made in collaboration with New York accent label Susan Alexander.
Hosiery Galore
In information that may enchantment to Hailey Bieber, who has tried to usher in a ‘socks with sandals’ renaissance for the whole summer time, CPHFW has simply co-signed on the pairing of socks with an array of footwear kinds.
A. Roege Hove paired black ankle socks with strappy-heeled sandals. Kernemilk’s runway featured striped knee-highs with PVC heels. Elsewhere, Marimekko had white socks styled with velcro sandals.
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