Marques’Almeida Returns To London With Joyful Homecoming

It’s usually posited that London is the centre of its personal universe. And for 2 respective weeks in February and September, colloquially often called London Fashion Week, it’s. In an deserted brewery transformed right into a inventive house on the continuing’s fifth day, an much more condensed microcosm was unveiled. Right here, maximalist womenswear label Marques’Almeida returned to the LFW schedule to stage their Fall/Winter 2024 present.

The Portuguese husband-wife design duo, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, delivered a sartorial procession that felt half homecoming and half renegade renaissance. After relocating to their hometown of Porto through the COVID-19 pandemic, the model has as soon as once more positioned their high-octane stamp on the town within the place all of it started: East London. Not solely was this a geographical homage to their burgeoning years, however an ode to their time within the pioneering rising designer incubator Vogue East. (A call that helped them take dwelling the celebrated LVMH Prize within the award’s sophomore yr in 2015.)

Because of this, the previous, current and future collided in a conflict of textures and tones towards the backdrop of their first-ever runway present. Relatively rebellious, the model took a round mode to unveil its new assortment, tapping pals of the model who had been there for the reason that starting to mannequin the presentation. (These adherents are fondly often called “M’A women” and embody i-D’s worldwide editor, Frankie Dunn.)

Provided that upcycling is a core a part of the model, it was solely becoming that reworking the past was included. However reasonably than this really feel like a trite rehashing of tried-and-tested silhouettes, the model expanded on its origins with unwavering certainty. This unfolded by means of traffic-stopping ombre denim skirts with uncooked hems and asymmetrical edges. (Maybe one thing Britany Spears would’ve worn to the 2001 American Music Awards after-party.)

Metallics, one of many model’s hallmarks, emerged in liquid olive units and a peachy aviator jacket lined with luxurious shearling. Even floral jacquard materials—which maybe in another context might appear matronly—appeared like they had been dipped in a liquid gloss. This sense of lamination continued throughout peplum-style vinyl outerwear and a collection of satin robes that protruded from the bodice.

Marques’ Almeida’s return introduced a way of the unpolished maximalism Portuguese type has develop into revered for (and emulated) on social media. However make no mistake, this assortment doesn’t pander to the pattern cycle or TikTok algorithms. This was clear within the pleasure seen on the youngsters’s faces who walked hand-in-hand with some fashions on the runway. If we had been to take a guess, this discernable jubilation was coming from a spot of understanding these designs would quickly be handed all the way down to them. In converging the previous and new, Marques’ Almeida unleashed a cosmos of creativeness. Will we see these items line the entrance row of their subsequent present come September? Solely time will inform.