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“I simply come from such a special craft, it’s such a special course of, and so I realised that it’s okay to not design jewelry as a jewelry designer would do.”
In Sydney’s Ace Hotel, the award-winning conceptual knitwear designer Amalie Roege Hove joins GRAZIA for a tête-à-tête on her eponymous model, A. Roege Hove, and the gathering that’s introduced her half away all over the world from her Copenhagen house.
For these with a blanket appreciation for style, Roege Hove could also be not a reputation you’re accustomed to… but. However, the Danish-based jeweller and silversmith, Georg Jensen, is undoubtedly a model you’re properly acquainted with and cherish.
Persevering with the Scandinavian design home’s custom of evolving iconic signatures via the lens of distinct auteur, the model has regarded to Roege Hove to reimagine one in all their most revered classes, the ‘Moonlight Grapes’.
“All the nice issues concerning the Moonlight Grapes are additionally the issues which are so completely different the place my work is extra strict and organised in a method,” Roege Hove tells me over espresso.
“I needed to think about how I’d take this natural jewelry assortment and make it extra inside our DNA as a result of I wished one thing definitely worth the heritage model of Georg Jensen, but in addition see that I used to be concerned,” she added.
The result’s a five-piece capsule assortment that comes with the technical observe concerned in Roege Hove’s knitwear designs right into a dynamic and tactical vary.
Much like the linear ribbing and sculptural fluidity discerned in her work, Roege Hove has reorganised the inherent fluidity of the ‘Moonlight Grapes’ into architecturally pushed shapes that graduate and cascade. Systematic by design, the gathering corresponds the silver ‘grapes’ into tessellating traces that oscillate from giant to small as they fold round your wrist, finger or neck.
“Georg Jensen had already completed a lot inside their designs of that assortment, so I didn’t simply wish to add to that,” Roege Hove added. “I wished to do one thing that might have a special expression… extra clear and graphic in a method.”
To have a good time this fusion of inventive universes and a cocktail of Danish design, Georg Jensen and Roege Hove fêted the gathering with an intimate dinner contained in the minimalist Utzon Room within the Sydney Opera Home.
A setting pertinent for the honouring of Scandinavian model since this famed landmark was additionally the brainchild of one other ingenious Dane, Jørn Utzon.
Joined by Ragnar Hjartarson, Georg Jensen Inventive Director, and Anne Sullivan, CEO of Georg Jensen Australia, we toasted the luxuriate’s 119-year historical past recontextualised via a bourgeoning perspective. A moonlight sonata, if you’ll.
Beneath, toast to the enviable aesthetic of distinct Danish design and uncover the hidden magnificence entrenched in A. Roege Hove’s luxurious craftsmanship.
GRAZIA: Your design language is rooted within the exploration of knitwear. How snug have been you stepping outdoors of this to experiment with jewelry?
Amalie Roege Hove: I feel probably the most troublesome half was as a result of I’m so used to working with one thing versatile—we’ve knitting machines within the studio the place we’re in a position to modify the whole lot and have it in our arms—I felt just like the silver was far more outlined. I used to be looking for the processes of how I can apply the silver to one thing the place I can nonetheless transfer it.
“I used to be attempting to be fairly inventive with it. I used to be attaching it to knitwear so I may additionally organise it however nonetheless have this sense of transferring it round to get a way of scale. I used to be attempting to play a bit of bit with like, though that course of appeared a bit of bit ‘rookie’ in a method.”
I stored reminding myself that it’s okay to not design just like the Georg Jensen workforce and that I simply noticed it in another way. As quickly as I made that leap between the larger items and the smaller items in distinction I knew that might be the essence of the gathering. I wished to see it in numerous scales and place completely different components on the physique as a result of I used to be nonetheless attempting to outline the proper proportion. I knew I wished to do one thing that had some measurement and weight, however was nonetheless useable and wearable.
GRAZIA: As you point out the physique is one thing explicit to your model’s DNA. How else did knitwear inform the shapes and kinds of this collaboration?
A. Roege Hove: Take the necklace, for instance. It’s fastened within the small, however then it’s additionally comfortable. I nonetheless wished one thing uniform. Just like the broach, it has this factor of management and one thing comfortable. I wished to really feel like you may put on the necklace with the distinction within the entrance or within the again, or have it turned the wrong way up. I wished this sense that folks may use all of the items in another way and so they may select to emphasize what they wished in that piece. But in addition the ring was fairly robust. It’s troublesome to sort of like change the setting of a hoop, in order that’s why items just like the bracelet and the brooch have been the place it began. After which like attempting to discover methods the place issues are much less free.
GRAZIA: Generally with collaborations, it could actually really feel like somebody’s simply slapped their identify on one thing and chosen a color. This feels very natural to who you might be and an evolution to the ‘Moonlight Grapes.’ What was your design course of like?
A. Roege Hove: I’m so completely happy you say that as a result of for me I did need it to look completely different but in addition inside that household. The gathering is how I genuinely need jewelry from our facet [A. Roege Hove] to look. Nevertheless it’s additionally troublesome to know if folks can see the identical issues. Within the inventive course of, it’s really easy for us to make these hyperlinks as a result of we made them in our studio. However you’re unsure till everybody sees that. After I determined the method can be the completely different sizes, I began pulling out our archive items and arranging the beads inside the rib construction and attempting to design it [the jewellery and the clothes] collectively. That was the best way I may envision it finest. Though these items aren’t designed for my knitwear alone, I wished them to be a terrific match with the model. You already know you may have the knitting machine after which the needle mattress, and I used to be putting beads there to imitate how one can change rigidity while you knit. I used to be actually like attempting to make use of the environment as should you have been to design a brand new assortment.
GRAZIA: It’s nice to see jewelry explored via this new lens, quite than simply following the standard design methodology
A. Roege Hove: That’s superior. It was additionally irritating within the sense that I do consider in specializing in and being tight with what you spend your time on. We now have frameworks for the best way we knit and I take pleasure in that we work fairly strictly in that method. So, making use of a totally new materials, I really feel prefer it was such a giant inspiration to get again to knitting. It was good including one thing completely different. However yeah, to start with it was irritating. I used to be like “I do wish to make actually superb jewelry” however the best way that these actually gifted folks on the design workforce at Georg Jensen do, I used to be like “I simply can’t adapt that!” Yeah, it wasn’t pure. As a inventive I feel it’s fairly regular, you simply invent your personal processes that sort of works for you.
“I discovered quite a bit about how we work and the processes we’ve as a result of I used to be compelled to sort of communicate extra loudly about them within the sense that I needed to do one thing else. However with that method.”
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GRAZIA: As a younger designer, what does it imply to you to have the ability to collaborate with a heritage Danish model on a worldwide scale?
A. Roege Hove: I used to be tremendous excited. Georg Jensen is a particular vary for me and my household, however I used to be sort of scared that I wouldn’t be capable of make one thing ok. I don’t wish to design something, simply to design one thing. So I went into it being like “If we’re going to do it we’ve to make one thing superb!” which is a horrible factor to inform your self earlier than beginning a inventive course of.
GRAZIA: Can we count on to see you employ these metalwork strategies and new supplies in your upcoming collections?
A. Roege Hove: This collaboration sort of opened me up. In that sense, it confirmed us the advantages of collaborating with others and welcoming in all of the supplies or the processes. So I do wish to do extra, however I don’t wish to do issues simply to do issues. Proper now I simply actually wish to respect this mission. However I’m actually completely happy that I realised within the course of that I may use my creativity to do different issues than knit. I used to assume that’s the factor I specialised in and it’s okay if that’s the one factor I can do. Nevertheless it was good variety realizing you are able to do greater than only one approach. We will carry extra inside our DNA and that was good to expertise.
GRAZIA: The world is besotted with Scandi model. What does it imply to you?
A. Roege Hove: After we speak about Scandinavian model earlier than folks would assume that it’s extra a few sure color scheme or a sure method of working or a sure sort of minimalism. Now, I might say it’s far more about craft and far more aware. It’s about transparency and welcoming folks in. So I feel for me, I don’t actually see it as a selected aesthetic as a lot as folks noticed Scandinavian model earlier than. I feel it’s far more a method of working and attempting to be within the style trade however in one other method in order that while you go to Copenhagen you may have a barely completely different expertise going to Paris. So, for me, I might hope that folks recognise the worth of issues quite than only a particular model.
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