See The Fall/Winter 2024 Assortment From CPHFW Right here

The wardrobe of the fashionable discerning girl has been on the crux of many designers’ methodologies since French couturiers beckoned in an period of liberation nearly a century in the past. However within the 2020s, how does one slice away from the noise to invoke a set that encapsulates the needs of up to date wares?

For REMAIN, the quiet and mature (albeit extra austere) subsidiary of Copenhagen’s oldest vogue home Birger Christensen, this sentiment has remained on the core of its ethos. Underneath the helm of newly appointed artistic director Martin Asbjørn, the Fall/Winter 2024 season for the label codified its mission assertion into 29 seems to be of renewed utility.

A lot chatter has permeated the zeitgeist concerning the singular aesthetic of the Copenhagen fashion set—the whimsical effervescence that calls to thoughts whenever you consider Danish design. But, right here on the runway on the barren gallery area of Den Frie, REMAIN resumes its give attention to clear strains, structured silhouettes, intriguing textural contrasts and refined simplicity. A brand new tackle Scandinavian minimalism, if you’ll.

“For this assortment I needed to carry collectively components of traditional and timeless dressing however seen via the lens of as we speak’s empowered girl and by doing so, giving it a up to date and related twist,” Asbjørn revealed post-show. Subvert he did, eschewing items historically relegated to the menswear wardrobe of yore.

Tailoring oscillated between the form of attire as soon as seen in royal courts—a peacoat rendered right into a gown with bubble hem—and sharp pinstripe skirt units with exact pleating—apt for the mob spouse on the transfer. Separates shaped a big portion of the gathering, delivered in body-conscious blazers with microscopic lapse and pointy collars, fur zip-up bombers and leather-based shirting.

Showstopping seems to be took the type of a silk gauze skirt closely embroidered in marcasite beads, sheer mesh shirts matching boots and kitten-heeled sling-backs designed in collaboration with Anny Nord. (The latter is now accessible to buy on-line).

Regardless of this being Asbjørn’s first full assortment as Artistic Director, the vary permeated with a way of familiarity. A continuity of tailoring that expands on the workwear redux offered throughout the Spring/Summer time 2024 season by earlier design lead, Denise Christensen. This sense of resilience and uniformity units REMAIN other than the subtleties of its contemporaries—together with the assertion partywear concocted by its sister label, ROTATE.

It’s not a altering of the guards, so to talk, however a reinvigoration. A potent silent metamorphosis that displays the brand new seat on Denmark’s throne. Fittingly, the items additionally show an ideal injection into the sovereign wardrobe of Australia’s personal Queen Mary. (Although she now not attire within the Y2K types of yore, this assortment might coax her again.) Lengthy might this epoch REMAIN.