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Some of the daring designers in vogue in the present day, Jonathan Anderson caught his neck out on Sunday evening and staged what may very effectively have been the primary virtually completely pant-less males’s present in Milan.
Sporting sheer black pantyhose tugged over their black underwear and costume socks, male fashions wore solely sweatshirts with huge poinsettia brooches, quirky cat-face sweaters, outsized tuxedo shirts sprouting an additional set of extra-long, streamer-like sleeves or — for a minimum of one exit — nothing greater than deodorant.
Right here was a fall JW Anderson males’s assortment moderately gentle on vogue thrills, and likewise on garments, recalling his present one yr in the past when a number of fashions appeared in solely briefs clutching rolls of woolen cloth.
Extra substantial exits this time included luxurious double-face wrap coats with roomy sleeves and jumbo collars; outsized cotton blousons, velvet blazers and fuzzy cardigans worn with saggy cargo pants, and good-looking trench coats with epaulettes and tab-like lapels.
The ladies’s pre-fall assortment was way more convincing, and sexier than ever, together with terrific mini trenches, T-shirt clothes with lopsided, pointy skirts, and cocktail numbers with deep-V necklines and sleeves with built-in gloves, however worn with different gloves, the built-in ones dangling.
Additionally ingenious, fetching and glamorous in a offbeat means: Homely wool cardigans with satin linings puffing out like whipping cream may from an overstuffed profiterole.
All the above was impressed by a random August re-watching of Stanley Kubrick’s “Eyes Vast Shut” and Anderson’s discovery that the legendary director’s widow Christine, now 91, is the prolific painter behind all of the artworks in his films, together with the one from “A Clockwork Orange” hanging within the window of the JW Anderson boutique in Milan.
Throughout a press briefing earlier within the day on the retailer, Anderson defined how Christine Kubrick’s artworks and provocative interiors in “Eyes Vast Shut” knowledgeable Sunday’s present, with a few her figurative work printed as a triptych throughout three floor-length cashmere sweater clothes.
Anderson mentioned he just lately realized his signature collections are usually autobiographical. He spent a superb chunk of final yr collaborating with Luca Guadagnino on the latter’s subsequent movie: The William S. Burroughs adaptation “Queer” starring Daniel Craig and Drew Starkey. Anderson described his fall 2024 present as “bizarre and perversely home.”
There isn’t area on this assessment to unpack all of the psychology at play in Anderson’s work, nevertheless it compels you to have a look at the gathering in a wide-eyed means.
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